The Journal · Field Notes

Why Americans pay to pick apples and the French pay to drink them

I told him we were going apple picking. He asked, reasonably, whether the farm was short-staffed.

The transaction is reversed

That is the whole article, and it took a car journey to work out. At an American orchard you pay to enter, you are handed a bag, you walk into the rows and you pick the fruit yourself. You are paying a farm for the privilege of doing a job the farm would otherwise pay someone to do. In Normandy you drive the Route du Cidre, pull into a farmyard, and someone pours you three things in small glasses and explains what they are. You are paying for the finished product and the explanation. Same countryside, same fruit, opposite direction.

What an American orchard actually sells

Not apples. Apples are cheaper at the supermarket and everybody knows it. The orchard sells a Saturday: the wagon ride out to the rows, the corn maze, the petting zoo, the cider doughnuts, the photograph of your children in a field. Pick-your-own exists in all fifty states and it exists because an orchard can earn more from an afternoon than from the fruit. It is a brilliant piece of agricultural economics and nobody involved is confused about it except visiting Frenchmen.

What a Norman farm sells

Time and provenance. More than four hundred apple varieties are catalogued in the Normandie-Maine regional park, and there are more cider varieties than dessert ones — apples grown to be fermented rather than eaten. Calvados has held an AOC since 1942 and can only be made in Normandy; Pommeau got its own in 1991. The visit is a tasting, free and unhurried, in a yard, with a producer who assumes you have come to learn the difference between a brut and a doux. France is the largest cider-producing country in the world. It does not need to put a corn maze next to it.

Neither one is the authentic version

The temptation here is to say the French do it properly and Americans do it for Instagram, and that is lazy. The Norman model works because the product is protected, regionally specific and alcoholic, which means it carries a margin. The American model works because the orchard is near a city full of people who want a day out and are not going to drink Calvados at eleven in the morning. Both are farms solving the problem of how to make a living from apples. They arrived at different answers because they had different apples and different neighbours.

The one thing America genuinely has

Cider doughnuts. There is no French equivalent, he has conceded this, and he ate four.

The one thing France genuinely has

The apples themselves, if you care about variety rather than volume. An American orchard will offer you fifteen or twenty cultivars, most of them bred for sweetness, size and shipping. Normandy has catalogued four hundred, many of them small, bitter and almost inedible raw — which is the point, because tannin is what makes cider taste of something. The American apple is optimised for eating. The French apple is optimised for what happens next.

What we actually did

Went apple picking. Paid admission. Picked more apples than two adults and three children can eat, as everyone does. Came home with a bag that sat on the counter until half of it went into a tart, which is the French ending to an American afternoon and probably the correct one.

A Saturday in the orchard

American orchardNormandy
You pay forAdmission, then the fruit by weightThe bottles, if you want any
You doThe harvestingThe tasting
Also on siteHay ride, corn maze, petting zooA cellar and a dog
The applesFifteen to twenty eating varietiesHundreds, mostly cider varieties
The productA bag of apples and a photographCider, Pommeau, Calvados
Protected by lawNoAOC since 1942

Questions, answered

Do the French go apple picking?

Not in the American sense. Pick-your-own is not a French tradition — the autumn equivalent is visiting cider producers along routes like Normandy’s Route du Cidre to taste cider, Pommeau and Calvados, rather than harvesting fruit yourself.

Why do Americans pay to pick their own apples?

Because the orchard is selling an afternoon rather than fruit. Pick-your-own is agritourism, usually bundled with hay rides, corn mazes and food stalls, and it earns an orchard more than selling the same apples wholesale.

What is the Route du Cidre?

A signposted route through Normandy’s Pays d’Auge linking sixteen official cider producers, all open to visitors for tastings. France is the largest cider-producing country in the world.

Are French apples different from American ones?

Largely yes. More than four hundred varieties are catalogued in the Normandie-Maine regional park, and cider varieties outnumber dessert apples. They are often small and tannic — unpleasant raw, essential for cider.

Sources

  • Normandy Tourism — the apple as the symbol of Normandy, autumn cider festivals and producer visits. En
  • Bagnoles de l’Orne — over four hundred catalogued apple varieties and the Calvados Domfrontais AOC. Bagnolesdelorne
  • VinePair — the Route du Cidre, its sixteen producers and the 1942 Calvados AOC. Vinepair

Verified October 2026.

He judges America weekly on Instagram, and Le Bulletin collects the best of it once a month.